One of the more popular pets that you can purchase is the cat. There are several breeds available with Siamese and Persian being the more popular ones. Cats are domesticated animals with a long storied history. Cat care will still cost you money so be ready to spend some.
Cat care includes many areas and all of them require money. You obviously need to buy cat food, and sometimes for the more expensive vet costs. If your cat breeds litter, obviously it will get more expensive as the years go by. A litter box, food dish and water dish and even some toys are just part of cat care. You can also try to get an ID collar just in case your cat ever gets lost.
Proper cat care also includes the necessary feeding of your cat. And feeding depends largely on the age of the cat. Kittens require several feedings a day until the age of 12 weeks and can get expensive real fast if they are fed canned food. Cats between three and six months need to be fed thrice a day. Cats love canned food but any canned food that is exposed for longer than 30 minutes need to be disposed of. Anyway, canned food does not have much dental benefits than dry food does.
You should always adopt a different plan whereby you can leave a supply of dry food out for your cat. Just make sure there is sufficient water when you give the dry food. One good thing about dry food is that they cost less than canned food and it can also help prevent tartar from building up on the teeth of your cat. Always try to check the dry food and buy those that are beneficial to the health of your cat and avoid generic food, although it may be cheaper.
Your cat care will get a little tedious if you own kittens. You will need to give only kitten food that is designed for them. Remember to clean and refill the water dish every day. Cow's milk is a favorite for both kittens and adult cats but you should avoid giving because it can cause diarrhea. Occasional treats of the milk and some human food is good, but too much of it will cause your pets to grow fat.
Make it a point to keep your cat clean. Your cat should be brushed at least once a day with the occasional bath. This will keep your cat's coat clean and nice looking and by also brushing you will reduce the incident of hairballs. If your cat is mainly kept inside then make sure they have a litter box they can easily get to. This litter box should also be properly and throughly cleaned at least once a week.
In Closing
Your cat will quickly become an important addition to your life even though they do require some effort. Your cat's health should remain fine as long as you take care of them physically and medically. Learning the correct ways to take care of your cat will only benefit you both in the long run.
2008年8月19日星期二
Motorcycle Pet Carrier Dangers and How to Avoid Them
Pet travel is a great way to enjoy the open road on your motorcycle with your four-legged friend. But traveling with pets should never be without precaution. Certain motorcycle pet carriers can pose a threat to your pet's life and your own. Let's explore several potential dangers of motorcycle dog carriers or cat carriers and how you can avoid them.
Pet Squirming, Falling, and Jumping while Traveling
Most pets - dogs and cats alike - are prone to squirm, jump, and pace while traveling. They don't realize the potential dangers of moving around and often try daring feats without warning. It's up to you as a pet owner to ensure your pet's safety at all times.
Motorcycle pet carriers that are held against your body with secure straps, such as pet travel chest pouches, will usually give and move as your pet moves. Unfortunately, when the pet begins to squirm, this can be a distraction to you as a driver or to your passenger if the pet is being held by someone in the motorcycle's passenger seat. A chest pouch can also become an annoyance in itself. It can become uncomfortable and very hot after a while, leaving both you and your pet feeling trapped and exhausted.
Another pet carrier that poses threats is the pet carrier bag that attaches to your motorcycle and secures your pet on a leash in front of the driver (between the knees) and allows the pet to stand while riding. This is a popular method for those who want to "show off" their pet while riding slowly in a parade or motorcycle rally, but it's not a safe choice for fast speeds on the open highway. The dog can easily lose his footing and slip off the motorcycle. This could hang him before you can reach out to save him. It can also distract you while driving when the dog moves around. This endangers you, your pet, your passenger, and others driving on the same highway.
With either of these types of motorcycle pet carriers, your pet will likely get hurt badly or killed if a serious accident occurs.
Other Dangers when Accidents Occur
Sturdy pet crates are the safest products to use for pet travel on motorcycles. But keep in mind, that the pet crate is only as good as its protective covering and mounting security. Pet crates that are not built solid will not endure a strong impact on pavement. If the pet crate gives, your pet may not survive. Also, if the pet crate cannot be mounted securely on your motorcycle, find one that will!
Pet crates and other pet carriers can also pose a threat to your pet's health if they contain dangerous protruding objects or screws on the interior, an insecure cage door, or improper ventilation.
Avoid Potential Dangers of Pet Travel
You can avoid these potential dangers by choosing a motorcycle pet carrier that is durable and has all the safety features needed for a comfortable, secure ride. Your pet should have plenty of room to move around within the pet crate, and plenty of ventilation for fresh air. The pet carrier should be mounted with secure bolting, and it should be made of hard plastic that can withstand direct hits on pavement.
If you enjoy other methods of transportation such as scooters or bikes, find a pet carrier that can be used for any method of travel. There are scooter dog carriers and bicycle pet carriers available that will also attach to motorcycles. You can go online to compare pet carriers and find a high-quality one that will meet your needs.
Pet Squirming, Falling, and Jumping while Traveling
Most pets - dogs and cats alike - are prone to squirm, jump, and pace while traveling. They don't realize the potential dangers of moving around and often try daring feats without warning. It's up to you as a pet owner to ensure your pet's safety at all times.
Motorcycle pet carriers that are held against your body with secure straps, such as pet travel chest pouches, will usually give and move as your pet moves. Unfortunately, when the pet begins to squirm, this can be a distraction to you as a driver or to your passenger if the pet is being held by someone in the motorcycle's passenger seat. A chest pouch can also become an annoyance in itself. It can become uncomfortable and very hot after a while, leaving both you and your pet feeling trapped and exhausted.
Another pet carrier that poses threats is the pet carrier bag that attaches to your motorcycle and secures your pet on a leash in front of the driver (between the knees) and allows the pet to stand while riding. This is a popular method for those who want to "show off" their pet while riding slowly in a parade or motorcycle rally, but it's not a safe choice for fast speeds on the open highway. The dog can easily lose his footing and slip off the motorcycle. This could hang him before you can reach out to save him. It can also distract you while driving when the dog moves around. This endangers you, your pet, your passenger, and others driving on the same highway.
With either of these types of motorcycle pet carriers, your pet will likely get hurt badly or killed if a serious accident occurs.
Other Dangers when Accidents Occur
Sturdy pet crates are the safest products to use for pet travel on motorcycles. But keep in mind, that the pet crate is only as good as its protective covering and mounting security. Pet crates that are not built solid will not endure a strong impact on pavement. If the pet crate gives, your pet may not survive. Also, if the pet crate cannot be mounted securely on your motorcycle, find one that will!
Pet crates and other pet carriers can also pose a threat to your pet's health if they contain dangerous protruding objects or screws on the interior, an insecure cage door, or improper ventilation.
Avoid Potential Dangers of Pet Travel
You can avoid these potential dangers by choosing a motorcycle pet carrier that is durable and has all the safety features needed for a comfortable, secure ride. Your pet should have plenty of room to move around within the pet crate, and plenty of ventilation for fresh air. The pet carrier should be mounted with secure bolting, and it should be made of hard plastic that can withstand direct hits on pavement.
If you enjoy other methods of transportation such as scooters or bikes, find a pet carrier that can be used for any method of travel. There are scooter dog carriers and bicycle pet carriers available that will also attach to motorcycles. You can go online to compare pet carriers and find a high-quality one that will meet your needs.
2008年8月12日星期二
Poodles – One Adorable Dog In Many Convenient Sizes
People love their poodles! A very popular but often misunderstood breed of dog, the poodle has been with us for centuries. Artifacts from ancient Egypt and Rome have been found bearing the images of poodles engaged in such activities as herding animals, retrieving game animals (small game animals, of course – especially birds), and assisting the dragging of game nets. In fact, the intentional breeding of various sized poodles (the American Kennel Club or AKC recognizes three sizes of poodles – Standard, Miniature, and Toy – which are all considered to be the same breed) likely dates back hundreds of years as opposed to other types of dogs which were bred this way only recently. Suffice to say that there have been oodles of poodles roaming the Earth for a very long time.
Defining the Poodles’ Sizes
The three sizes of poodle have distinct definitions according to the AKC. For purposes of competition in dog shows, the different sizes are determined by the poodle’s height at the shoulder. Standard poodles are defined by being taller than fifteen inches at the shoulder. Miniature poodles must stand no more than fifteen inches but more than ten inches at the shoulder, and Toy poodles must be ten inches or less. Recently breeders have been offering Teacup poodles as well. While the AKC does not recognize the Teacup distinction, most breeders consider a poodle that stands eight inches or less at the shoulder when full grown to be a Teacup poodle. Teacup poodles are proving to be very popular and fetch some of the higher prices for poodle pups.
Poodle Popularity
The popularity of poodles is particularly due to a plethora of pleasant attributes in poodle personalities. Poodles are proud dogs and usually very active. It is said that the poodle carries an air of regal dignity unseen in other breeds of dog. Some poodles, however, can be exceptionally shy while others may be very cross creatures. These are the exception rather than the rule. Generally speaking, pet poodles please people.
Primping the Poodle
Poodle grooming is nearly an art form and there are four generally accepted styles used for show poodles. These are called “show quality clips” and generally include shaping the poodle’s coat to exact specifications in some areas while completely shaving other areas. These four show quality poodle cuts are the Puppy Show Clip, English Saddle Clip, Continental Clip, and Sporting Clip. In addition to these there are five common “pet quality” poodle clips that are employed with non-show dogs. They are known as the Kennel Clip, Dutch Clip (there are two styles of Dutch clip), Bikini Clip, and Puppy Pet Clip.
For those thinking about becoming poodle owners, the AKC has plenty of information on what to look for in a purebred poodle. The can help potential poodle procurers avoid unnecessary poodle pitfalls and start on the road to a long and happy relationship of poodle puppy love.
Defining the Poodles’ Sizes
The three sizes of poodle have distinct definitions according to the AKC. For purposes of competition in dog shows, the different sizes are determined by the poodle’s height at the shoulder. Standard poodles are defined by being taller than fifteen inches at the shoulder. Miniature poodles must stand no more than fifteen inches but more than ten inches at the shoulder, and Toy poodles must be ten inches or less. Recently breeders have been offering Teacup poodles as well. While the AKC does not recognize the Teacup distinction, most breeders consider a poodle that stands eight inches or less at the shoulder when full grown to be a Teacup poodle. Teacup poodles are proving to be very popular and fetch some of the higher prices for poodle pups.
Poodle Popularity
The popularity of poodles is particularly due to a plethora of pleasant attributes in poodle personalities. Poodles are proud dogs and usually very active. It is said that the poodle carries an air of regal dignity unseen in other breeds of dog. Some poodles, however, can be exceptionally shy while others may be very cross creatures. These are the exception rather than the rule. Generally speaking, pet poodles please people.
Primping the Poodle
Poodle grooming is nearly an art form and there are four generally accepted styles used for show poodles. These are called “show quality clips” and generally include shaping the poodle’s coat to exact specifications in some areas while completely shaving other areas. These four show quality poodle cuts are the Puppy Show Clip, English Saddle Clip, Continental Clip, and Sporting Clip. In addition to these there are five common “pet quality” poodle clips that are employed with non-show dogs. They are known as the Kennel Clip, Dutch Clip (there are two styles of Dutch clip), Bikini Clip, and Puppy Pet Clip.
For those thinking about becoming poodle owners, the AKC has plenty of information on what to look for in a purebred poodle. The can help potential poodle procurers avoid unnecessary poodle pitfalls and start on the road to a long and happy relationship of poodle puppy love.
2008年8月11日星期一
Feline Asthma: Investigation and Treatment
It is quite common for cats to present to veterinary clinics with a chronic cough or wheeze. The problem may be constant or just recur from time to time, and can range from mild to severe. Clinically the disease may resemble human asthma, but the term feline asthma can be misleading as there are a number of different possible causes. Here we look at what those underlying causes can be, and the different forms of treatment available to affected cats.
Cats usually present with one or all the following signs:
1. Coughing
2. Wheezing
3. Difficulty breathing
A minority of cases will have the classic human status asthmaticus, rapid onset breathing difficulty due to severe narrowing of the bronchi. Cats tend to be middle aged or older, and Siamese cats may be more prone than other breeds.
The Pathology
Little is known about the underlying causes or exacerbating factors in feline asthma. There may be an element of genetic predisposition. While chronic inhalation of airway irritants, such as smoking, has been shown to cause bronchitis in humans, this has not been studied in detail in cats. Likewise, allergens such as pollen, housedust mites, dander, fungal spores, dust and cat litter could all be implicated theoretically.
To return to the comparison with human asthma, when trying to understand the underlying causes it is important to differentiate between asthma (constriction of the bronchi), chronic bronchitis (oversecretion of mucus with a chronic cough) and COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease). Asthma is reversible bronchial constriction caused by eosinophil cells, whereas COPD is irreversible bronchial constriction involving neutrophil cells.
The Differentials
There are a large number of possible diagnoses when a cat first presents with coughing or breathing difficulty. Here are some of the more important ones:
1. Pulmonary edema. Often due to severe heart disease.
2. Infectious bronchitis. This can be due to bacteria, viruses or parasites.
3. Pleural disease. Filling of the space between the lung and the chest wall with air or an effusion.
4. Cancer. This can be a primary lung tumor or metastatic spread.
5. Potassium bromide induced respiratory disease. A side effect from an anti-epileptic drug.
6. Idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis. Responds poorly to treatment.
7. Pulmonary thromboembolus. Lodging of a clot in a respiratory blood vessel causing sudden onset breathing difficulty.
8. Pulmonary hypertension. Usually secondary to other heart or respiratory disease.
Diagnosis
1. Clinical examination
The first step in the diagnostic protocol is a thorough clinical examination by a veterinarian. This should localize the origin of the disease to the upper airways, lower airways or pleural space. If the cat is found to have pleural disease, a needle may be inserted straight away to remove either air or a sample of the effusion for both diagnosis and short term treatment of the respiratory distress.
2. Radiography
The next test performed is usually thoracic radiography. This is best performed under general anesthetic so there is lee chance for motion blur, though in acute situations this is not possible. This is where the most meaningful information can be gained.
3. Bronchoscopy
Bronchoscopy allows visualization of the larger airways, and assessment for increased mucus and inflammation.
4. Tracheal wash
This involves injecting a small amount of saline into the trachea and immediately withdrawing it, and then examining the cells and debris harvested under a microscope.
5. Bronchoalveolar lavage
This is similar to the technique described above, but the catheter is inserted all the way into a lower airway before the saline is injected and withdrawn. This is therefore a good test for lower airway disease.
6. Lung biopsy
This is an invasive procedure that carries a significant risk to the patient. It is only indicated where diffuse cancer or extensive fibrosis is suspected, or in severe disease that responds poorly to treatment.
Treatment
The aims of treatment are as follows.
1. Eliminate any suspected infectious agents. This may be a sufficiently long course of antibiotics if bacterial infection is suspected, or a wormer such as fenbendazole if lungworm is suspected.
2. Remove or avoid airway irritants. The most obvious one is ensuring the cat has no contact with cigarette smoke, and purchasing dust free cat litter.
3. Removal or avoidance of potential allergens. House dust mite allergy must be excluded by spraying the house with an acaricidal product.
4. Chronic therapy for the underlying condition. For long term treatment of cats with feline asthma, a combination of steroids and bronchodilators are a popular choice. Steroids reduce the inflammation and lower mucus production, and can limit long term consequences such as fibrosis. Bronchodilators are most useful when there is airway spasm. Traditionally, medication has been given orally via tablets, but over the last few years, metered dose inhalers such as the ones used for human asthma have come on the market.
Aerosol therapy has the advantage that the maximum concentration of drug is delivered to the target site. This means that lower overall doses can be used, and the cat is less likely to suffer the negative side effects of steroids. Various inhalers can be used in both cats and dogs, but they tend to be designed for humans. As a result, higher doses are given compared with human medicine, as humans can be instructed to breathe deeply whereas cats will breathe normally at best.
Glucocorticoid drugs (steroids) used in inhalers include Beclometasone, Fluticasone and Budesonide. Beclometasone is cheap, but is rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream when you want it to hang around in the area where it applied. Fluticasone is more expensive, but tends to stay where you want it to. Budesonide is relatively inexpensive and though it is easily absorbed into the bloodstream, it tends to be removed the first time it goes through the liver.
Bronchodilator drugs used in inhalers include Salbutamol and Salmeterol. Salbutamol is very fast acting and therefore useful in a crisis caused by spasm of the bronchi. However, it only lasts for about 30 minutes and is therefore unsuitable for chronic therapy as frequent dosing is required. Salmeterol on the other hand is longer acting, and lasts for about 12 hours so twice daily dosing is possible. Salmeterol is better for long term control of mild to moderate asthma while Salbutamol is better for relief of acute bronchospasm.
The Seretide Evohaler is useful for cats requiring both steroid and bronchodilator therapy. It contains salbutamol and fluticasone, a combination allowing minimal dosing frequency.
Spacer devices
A spacer device consists of a chamber into which the aerosol drug is released at one end, with a mask at the other end which fits snugly over the cats mouth and nose. Human baby spacer devices (e.g. Babyhaler) can be easily adapted for cats. Alternatively, veterinary spacers specifically designed for cats are now on the market (e.g. Aerokat). The spacer should be held over the cats nose and mouth for about 30 seconds to ensure complete delivery of the drugs. It should be remembered that aerosol steroid therapy can take up to 2 weeks to reach full effect, and if the cat has been on oral steroids previously, these should be phased out slowly during these initial 2 weeks.
Is treatment lifelong?
Generally yes. Doses can often be reduced gradually once clinical remission has been achieved. As with many chronic conditions, complete control might not always be possible and an acceptable quality of life is the main aim of the treatment.
Cats usually present with one or all the following signs:
1. Coughing
2. Wheezing
3. Difficulty breathing
A minority of cases will have the classic human status asthmaticus, rapid onset breathing difficulty due to severe narrowing of the bronchi. Cats tend to be middle aged or older, and Siamese cats may be more prone than other breeds.
The Pathology
Little is known about the underlying causes or exacerbating factors in feline asthma. There may be an element of genetic predisposition. While chronic inhalation of airway irritants, such as smoking, has been shown to cause bronchitis in humans, this has not been studied in detail in cats. Likewise, allergens such as pollen, housedust mites, dander, fungal spores, dust and cat litter could all be implicated theoretically.
To return to the comparison with human asthma, when trying to understand the underlying causes it is important to differentiate between asthma (constriction of the bronchi), chronic bronchitis (oversecretion of mucus with a chronic cough) and COPD (chronic obstructive pulmonary disease). Asthma is reversible bronchial constriction caused by eosinophil cells, whereas COPD is irreversible bronchial constriction involving neutrophil cells.
The Differentials
There are a large number of possible diagnoses when a cat first presents with coughing or breathing difficulty. Here are some of the more important ones:
1. Pulmonary edema. Often due to severe heart disease.
2. Infectious bronchitis. This can be due to bacteria, viruses or parasites.
3. Pleural disease. Filling of the space between the lung and the chest wall with air or an effusion.
4. Cancer. This can be a primary lung tumor or metastatic spread.
5. Potassium bromide induced respiratory disease. A side effect from an anti-epileptic drug.
6. Idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis. Responds poorly to treatment.
7. Pulmonary thromboembolus. Lodging of a clot in a respiratory blood vessel causing sudden onset breathing difficulty.
8. Pulmonary hypertension. Usually secondary to other heart or respiratory disease.
Diagnosis
1. Clinical examination
The first step in the diagnostic protocol is a thorough clinical examination by a veterinarian. This should localize the origin of the disease to the upper airways, lower airways or pleural space. If the cat is found to have pleural disease, a needle may be inserted straight away to remove either air or a sample of the effusion for both diagnosis and short term treatment of the respiratory distress.
2. Radiography
The next test performed is usually thoracic radiography. This is best performed under general anesthetic so there is lee chance for motion blur, though in acute situations this is not possible. This is where the most meaningful information can be gained.
3. Bronchoscopy
Bronchoscopy allows visualization of the larger airways, and assessment for increased mucus and inflammation.
4. Tracheal wash
This involves injecting a small amount of saline into the trachea and immediately withdrawing it, and then examining the cells and debris harvested under a microscope.
5. Bronchoalveolar lavage
This is similar to the technique described above, but the catheter is inserted all the way into a lower airway before the saline is injected and withdrawn. This is therefore a good test for lower airway disease.
6. Lung biopsy
This is an invasive procedure that carries a significant risk to the patient. It is only indicated where diffuse cancer or extensive fibrosis is suspected, or in severe disease that responds poorly to treatment.
Treatment
The aims of treatment are as follows.
1. Eliminate any suspected infectious agents. This may be a sufficiently long course of antibiotics if bacterial infection is suspected, or a wormer such as fenbendazole if lungworm is suspected.
2. Remove or avoid airway irritants. The most obvious one is ensuring the cat has no contact with cigarette smoke, and purchasing dust free cat litter.
3. Removal or avoidance of potential allergens. House dust mite allergy must be excluded by spraying the house with an acaricidal product.
4. Chronic therapy for the underlying condition. For long term treatment of cats with feline asthma, a combination of steroids and bronchodilators are a popular choice. Steroids reduce the inflammation and lower mucus production, and can limit long term consequences such as fibrosis. Bronchodilators are most useful when there is airway spasm. Traditionally, medication has been given orally via tablets, but over the last few years, metered dose inhalers such as the ones used for human asthma have come on the market.
Aerosol therapy has the advantage that the maximum concentration of drug is delivered to the target site. This means that lower overall doses can be used, and the cat is less likely to suffer the negative side effects of steroids. Various inhalers can be used in both cats and dogs, but they tend to be designed for humans. As a result, higher doses are given compared with human medicine, as humans can be instructed to breathe deeply whereas cats will breathe normally at best.
Glucocorticoid drugs (steroids) used in inhalers include Beclometasone, Fluticasone and Budesonide. Beclometasone is cheap, but is rapidly absorbed into the bloodstream when you want it to hang around in the area where it applied. Fluticasone is more expensive, but tends to stay where you want it to. Budesonide is relatively inexpensive and though it is easily absorbed into the bloodstream, it tends to be removed the first time it goes through the liver.
Bronchodilator drugs used in inhalers include Salbutamol and Salmeterol. Salbutamol is very fast acting and therefore useful in a crisis caused by spasm of the bronchi. However, it only lasts for about 30 minutes and is therefore unsuitable for chronic therapy as frequent dosing is required. Salmeterol on the other hand is longer acting, and lasts for about 12 hours so twice daily dosing is possible. Salmeterol is better for long term control of mild to moderate asthma while Salbutamol is better for relief of acute bronchospasm.
The Seretide Evohaler is useful for cats requiring both steroid and bronchodilator therapy. It contains salbutamol and fluticasone, a combination allowing minimal dosing frequency.
Spacer devices
A spacer device consists of a chamber into which the aerosol drug is released at one end, with a mask at the other end which fits snugly over the cats mouth and nose. Human baby spacer devices (e.g. Babyhaler) can be easily adapted for cats. Alternatively, veterinary spacers specifically designed for cats are now on the market (e.g. Aerokat). The spacer should be held over the cats nose and mouth for about 30 seconds to ensure complete delivery of the drugs. It should be remembered that aerosol steroid therapy can take up to 2 weeks to reach full effect, and if the cat has been on oral steroids previously, these should be phased out slowly during these initial 2 weeks.
Is treatment lifelong?
Generally yes. Doses can often be reduced gradually once clinical remission has been achieved. As with many chronic conditions, complete control might not always be possible and an acceptable quality of life is the main aim of the treatment.
2008年8月7日星期四
How to Find thePerfect Pet Urn
When you lose a beloved pet, it can almost be like losing one of the family. Many of use develop a close relationship with our pet, enjoying the unconditional love they always show us, even when we've had a bad day and snapped at them. So if you've been lucky enough to have a special pet in your life, it's a great idea to use a pet urn as a treasured memento of their life. You can arrange to have your dog, cat or any other pet cremated, and then place their ashes in a pet urn as a treasured keepsake.
Pet urns are available in a huge variety of styles, with different shapes, colors and sizes. Probably the best place to begin is to decide how much you can afford to pay for a pet urn. Then you'll be able to stick to looking at urns you can afford, without getting carried away. The cheapest urns are usually the simpler, more basic urns, and the more decoration and personalized touches you add, the more expensive they get. If your budget is limited, you can always get a simple pet urn and then use other mementoes, such as a collar, to make it special.
It's also a good idea to think about what you want to do with the urn. Many people bury them in the yard and plant a memorial tree. In that case, a simple urn is sufficient. However if you plan to put the pet urn on display, then it might be best to choose a more elaborate design to help make it attractive to look at.
If you've decided you want to get a more decorative pet urn, there are plenty of varieties to choose from. You can choose a vase-shaped urn decorated with carving, right through to a life-sized replica of your pet. Perhaps you could choose a pet urn with space to put some photos of your pet, or a burial urn that you can bury in the garden that comes with a marker for placing in the ground above the urn. You can even get pet urns shaped like rocks or garden ornaments if you want to place the urn in your garden, but don't want to bury it in case you move house.
Most people also like to personalize their pet urn in some way. It's quite common for pet urns to have a brass plate attached, that you can remove easily for engraving. Some urns can also be laser engraved, and others incorporate slots that can be used for inserting photos. Even if the pet urn is fairly basic, you can still place special items around the urn to form a display of your loved pet's life.
Pet urns are available from a variety of places, including veterinary clinics and pet crematoriums. You may find that a crematorium has a more extensive range, and they can handle the whole process for you. It's never easy to say goodbye to a good friend, but choosing a pet urn can be a special way to keep your pet's memory alive forever.
Pet urns are available in a huge variety of styles, with different shapes, colors and sizes. Probably the best place to begin is to decide how much you can afford to pay for a pet urn. Then you'll be able to stick to looking at urns you can afford, without getting carried away. The cheapest urns are usually the simpler, more basic urns, and the more decoration and personalized touches you add, the more expensive they get. If your budget is limited, you can always get a simple pet urn and then use other mementoes, such as a collar, to make it special.
It's also a good idea to think about what you want to do with the urn. Many people bury them in the yard and plant a memorial tree. In that case, a simple urn is sufficient. However if you plan to put the pet urn on display, then it might be best to choose a more elaborate design to help make it attractive to look at.
If you've decided you want to get a more decorative pet urn, there are plenty of varieties to choose from. You can choose a vase-shaped urn decorated with carving, right through to a life-sized replica of your pet. Perhaps you could choose a pet urn with space to put some photos of your pet, or a burial urn that you can bury in the garden that comes with a marker for placing in the ground above the urn. You can even get pet urns shaped like rocks or garden ornaments if you want to place the urn in your garden, but don't want to bury it in case you move house.
Most people also like to personalize their pet urn in some way. It's quite common for pet urns to have a brass plate attached, that you can remove easily for engraving. Some urns can also be laser engraved, and others incorporate slots that can be used for inserting photos. Even if the pet urn is fairly basic, you can still place special items around the urn to form a display of your loved pet's life.
Pet urns are available from a variety of places, including veterinary clinics and pet crematoriums. You may find that a crematorium has a more extensive range, and they can handle the whole process for you. It's never easy to say goodbye to a good friend, but choosing a pet urn can be a special way to keep your pet's memory alive forever.
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